Ovaka Island Trip Photos

My Neighbor Fuiongo

Last year I was surprised to find a little old woman living in the previously uninhabited and decrepit house adjacent to mine. In Tonga people rarely live alone, so a 75 year-old woman living unaccompanied is extremely uncommon. Almost a year from our original meeting Fuiongo remains a bit of an enigma.

When I host volunteers for dinner I make a point to introduce them to my neighbor Fuiongo; the toothless 75 year-old woman living without electricity or water, who will tell you you are gorgeous and read your palm. Fuiongo is a witch doctor and a devout Christian, yet another classic contradiction within this extremely conservative culture. With Fuiongo I have both translated the better half of Tongan Genesis and watched her tell fortunes via card and palm readings. Fuiongo is also renowned for administering Tongan medicine. I often hear Fuiongo using a makeshift mortar and pestle, creating a variety of concoctions intended cure everything from chicken pox to headaches. When I get blisters, Fuinongo takes notice and without fail produces a curious mixture of crushed leaves, among other things. My hearty display of Neosporin and Band-Aids is no match for Fuiongo’s faith in the wonders of Tongan medicine, and with a sigh of defeat I relinquish my ankles to Fuiongo’s green, gooey leaf encrusted fingers.

Fuiongo is concerned about my wellbeing and often goes out of her way to ensure I am taken care of. I typically receive plates full of tasteless boiled root crops and canned fish, however, Fuiongo has been known to periodically present me with mangoes, bananas, noodles, and crackers, among other much less decipherable dishes. Although Fuiongo more often than not appears at my doorway bearing culinary offerings, occasionally she merely has a question. Inquiries as to the time, day, date, and most recently, the month (“Yes, Fuiongo, Friday the 19th of September”) are recurrent.

There are two activities I am typically engaged in during Fuiongo’s unswerving early morning visits, on average between the hours of 6am and 8am. The first (and favorite) pastime is soundly sleeping. Once acclimated to late night wails of children and early morning crows of roosters, I have made a concerted and successful effort to sleep a solid nine hours every night. The subsequent pastime I am regrettably not as dedicated to as I am my enviable sleep schedule is my post-run sit-ups routine. I used to be irritated by Fuiongo’s persistent knocking on my door. The facets of Tongan culture regarding lack of annoyance with which waking people up from sleep or stopping by uninvited are viewed have been difficult to adjust to. Recently, however, I have grown to appreciate Fuiongo’s perpetual food offerings and inquiries as part of my morning routine, and if I am not woken up in the midst of a dream or interrupted mid-sit-up I feel derelict for the rest of the day.

Fuiongo helped me prepare for our dance practices which did not only comprise of dressing me in all that sparkles and shines but dousing me in perfume as well.

Fuiongo warmly received my father on his very memorable first day in Tonga (yes, that's a giant roast pig covered with lobsters and hardboiled eggs on the table).

Bush Walk Photos