Sarah's Faka-Fabulous Blog

Top 34 Reasons You Know You Volunteered in Peace Corps Tonga (Let's make it 100!)

2009-05-16T09:25:00.000-07:00

I’ve had nearly six months since the end of my Peace Corps service in Tonga. It's impossible to identify all of the ways my life has changed as a result of my two years living in the South Pacific. My thoughts, behaviors, and plans for the future have all been influenced as a result of my extremely formative Peace Corps experience.

Throughout my time in Tonga I experienced the most difficult, pleasant, interesting, busy, monotonous and fun days of my life. While in Tonga I, along with many of my Peace Corps friends, noted the ridiculousness of “island life” –the spontaneous, confusing, hilarious and frightening aspects of living alone in a tropical island kingdom. While sharing the idiosyncrasies of our existence in Tonga, many of us would start our stories with “You know you’re in Peace Corps Tonga when…”

I’ve compiled a list of “You know you’ve Volunteered in Peace Corps Tonga when…” as a component of the very relevant Peace Corps Goal #3 of sharing Tongan culture in addition to my need to share my revelations and reflections in regards to my two years in Tonga.

Enjoy:)

Top 34 Reasons You Know You

Volunteered in Peace Corps Tonga

1. "You’re clean for a bucket bather" is one of the nicest compliments you’ve ever received.

2. You've shared the wonders of the English language with the beautiful children of Tonga.

3. The thought of dining by candlelight makes you feel sad and lonely.

4. You’ve consumed copious amounts of Ikale and lived to tell the tale.

5. You have no idea what a Wii is.

6. You’ve packed a giant bag of dirty laundry to go on vacation.

7. You have friends named Loketi (Rocket), Telefoni (Telephone), Vai (Liquid), Feiloaki (Introduce yourself), Venitaleita (Ventilator), Puke (Sick), Makoni (Telegram) and Vaka Puna (Airplane)

8. This is a special treat:

9. You've purchased month old expired boxed skim milk in bulk because it was such a great deal.

10. You went well over a year without a haircut or a hot shower.

11. You’ve been enthusiastically congratulated for gaining weight.

12. You've been bitten by one of these bad boys:

13. You have no idea how to use an iphone.

14. You’ve eaten horse, cat, whale sea, turtle and/or dog and found it to be delicious.

15. You’ve danced for and/or dined with a King.

16. Reading Newsweek fills you with an overwhelming sense of nostalgia.

17. You’ve gone swimming with humpback whales.

18. The fact that you may never eat lu again makes you depressed.

19. You’ve had to change your plans because someone killed a pig in your honor.

20. You’ve kissed a corpse (or two or three).

21. Your lawn care has been provided by a horse.

22. Throughout the 2008 Presidential campaign you had no idea how to pronounce Palin or Biden.

23. Roast pig staring you down at the table increases your appetite.

24. Giant (and hairy) brown spiders fail to freak you out.

25. Whenever you hear a dog bark you instinctively drop to the ground and pick up the closest rock.

26. You don't use fork or spoons when eating food that technically requires the use of such utensils.

27. Before drinking a glass of water, you hold it up to the light to check for mosquito larva while asking "Is this rain water?"

28. You've killed a rat with your bare hands (slight exaggeration, but only slight)

29. You consider going on a walk with a boy a hot date.

30. When someone calls your name you respond by either screeching "kooooo" or by saying "ko ou heni!"

31. You feel dejected when nobody at the grocery store asks you where you are going while you walk up and down the aisles.

32. Instead of asking a simple "Why?" you demand "the reason".

33. You sometimes forget to take your clothes off before you get in the shower.

34. You have multiple namesakes.

Osi Osi

2008-12-06T03:10:00.000-08:00

My time as a Peace Corps volunteer has officially ended. The past few days have been a whirlwind; trying to pack, say my goodbyes, move out of my house... Thankfully I had a lot of understanding and support from my friends and villagers who made this huge transition extremely positive. I am leaving Tonga knowing that I made the most of my two years and that I ultimately will be back to visit the country and people who have become such a significant part of my life.

Fortunately this past week there were a lot of activities going on throughout my village, so I had many opportunities to let people know about my imminent departure. By saying traditional “fakamalo” thank you speeches, I have been able to share my appreciation for having spent two years in such an incredible part of the world surrounded by wonderful people as well my plans for the future with my villagers. These tearful speeches have given me some much needed closure.

Wednesday afternoon there was a “koniseti” concert where I was able to dance around to some classic Tongan hits with the kiddos one last time.

Thursday was the “Misionales” at the Church of Tonga, and was where I attended my last church service in Tonga and ate at my last “kaipola”.

Friday night I baked one last cake for my adopted Tongan family, and then spent much of the night acting as a “to’a” serving kava at the Silakivai organization’s faikava one last time.

Saturday, my last day in Vava’u, was mostly spent packing. I am typically not a last minute packer; I had been sick and extremely busy this past week (and a bit in denial) so I had yet to start packing my bags…

The day of my departure I was woken up at an early 6am by my neighbour Fuiongo, yelling outside my window asking if I was ready to eat some boiled tinned fish and sweet potato. As frustrated as I get at being woken up so abruptly and early in the morning (in addition to the constant query as to whether or not I want to eat) I had to laugh at the fact that on my last morning in Vava’u I had a classic Fuiongo wake up call… I wouldn’t have had it any other way.

As soon as I woke up and started to pack I was constantly interrupted by knocks at the door. Throughout the morning I had several people coming in to say goodbye and drop off gifts. The “me’a ofa” gifts I received were given to me with clear instructions to wear the items on my flight to Tongatapu – I showed up to the airport looking like a true “ta’ahine Tonga” – Tongan girl. There were many people from my village at the airport as well as some fellow Peace Corps Volunteers who came to see me off. Thankfully the mood at the airport was extremely positive and I didn’t shed a tear. Perhaps I was all cried out, or maybe it is just that I have realized I should not be sad to end this incredible chapter of my life; I should just appreciate that I was fortunate enough to spend two years of my life living in such an incredible part of the world with such wonderful people and share in the beauty of Tonga.

My flight to the main island of Tongatapu had a 30 minute layover on the island of Ha’apai. The island of Ha’apai is so narrow that the main road goes right over the landing strip; there is a gate that is locked to stop traffic when planes are getting ready to land or takeoff. During our two months in Ha’apai in 2006, my friend Jessica and I lived with families who lived on opposite sides of the airport runway. Jessica and I decided while making our descent to Ha’apai that it would be a great idea to quickly and literally run over to our old homestay families’ houses and say a quick hello and goodbye. Jessica and I checked with the pilot to make sure we would have enough time to make the short journey to the end of the runway, and when given permission hopped off the plane and hightailed it down the airstrip. While Jessica ran to the left, I veered to the right yelling across the runway something along the lines of "I'm sure everyone on the plane thinks we're crazy, and we probably are” Where else in the world can you hop off a plane and take off running down the runway? Needless to say, our old homestay families were extremely surprised and pleased to see us, albeit briefly!

While in Tongatapu I had a wonderful time hanging out and saying my goodbyes to other volunteers and our incredible Peace Corps staff. I also made it to the beach for one more time in Tonga :)

I was fortunate to meet my friends Katie and Steve during my layover in LA. It was so much fun catching up with them and I am really looking forward to seeing all my old friends and family over the next few weeks.

Tau Puna Lofa

2008-12-01T20:31:00.000-08:00

Tongan children continuously amaze me with their ingenuity. Of all the random items the kids here turn into toys, the black plastic tape from VHS tapes has to be the most creative. The VHS tape provides a multitude of options for the children’s creativity in play – from ninja costumes to kite flying.

The VHS tape is often used as a kite tail. The rest of the kite is typically constructed of old notebook paper, medical tape, sticks, thread and an old can for the spool.

When I first saw the ramshackle kites I didn’t think that they would ever actually fly. The kites really do fly though, so unbelievably high in the sky it sometimes takes me a few minutes to find the tiny speck so far in the distance. One of the many random parts of my day that makes me smile.

Ofa Lahi ki he Tamaiki Ako

2008-11-30T18:51:00.000-08:00

There is a band of children in my neighborhood who I have become extremely close to over the past two years. Now that I am getting ready to leave, their once sporadic knocks at my door have become increasingly more frequent. I had eight separate requests to come in to read, color, help do laundry – anything to get inside the palangi’s house.

If I wasn’t so close to finishing my time in Tonga I think I’d find this annoying, however, I love these children and thinking that I will be leaving them in a few short days breaks my heart – I want to spend as much time with them as possible before I go.

My desire to spend more time with the local kids was evident last week when I decided to host my first sleepover in well over a decade - complete with movies, popcorn, and nail polish. If that isn’t sharing American culture, I don’t know what is.

The kids have been receiving a lot of my clothes as I have been cleaning out my house in preparation for my return to the states next week. Giving away my belongings is a way for me to show my appreciation to the people who have spent the past two incredible years with me in this lovely village. It makes me smile to think for many years to come the kids in Leimatu’a will be running around in my clothes; Colby-Sawyer College, Google, and the Gap are certainly well represented.

I’m not as much of a packrat as I used to be, however, I did come across some interesting items while cleaning out my house this morning. I am a huge fan of theme parties. Last year when I was in Australia I took the opportunity to stock up on novelty items perfect for some fun times in Tonga, a pack of “party mustaches” being my most precious purchase. Low and behold this morning I found the comical items, with such incredible names as “The Hero”, “The Weasel”, “The Sheriff”, “The Bruiser”, and “The Hollywood”. The distribution of the party mustaches are a component of my informal English language teaching – the word “mustache” will not soon be forgotten in Leimatu’a, that’s for sure.

Pomp, Circumstance and Candy

2008-11-26T02:50:00.000-08:00

This morning I attended the Class One graduation of my neighbor Naua. On the way to the ceremony I noticed two giant boxes full of “kahoa” necklaces made out of candy and fresh flowers in the car.

Once the class rank of the five year olds had been announced to the masses, I was instructed by Naua's mother, Uai, to help carry the kahoas to the stage.

I proceeded to put one kahoa around each child's head. I assumed by the sheer number of kahoas that were placed in my arms that I was to give one to everybody in the class; I was mistaken.

After I had placed kahoas around several children’s necks, I looked over to see each family placing an inordinate amount of kahoas around their respective child’s neck and arms.

I realized my mistake and quickly joined Uai in placing one kahoa after another around Naua’s extremities until she was immobilized.

I can only imagine what transpires at college graduation ceremonies.

too much candy...

crash

The Trainees & Me

2008-11-23T14:29:00.000-08:00

A few months ago I was asked by a Peace Corps employee preparing for Group 74’s arrival to Tonga whether or not I would mind having eight Peace Corps Trainees live in my village for their six week homestay experience. After some hesitation I decided that I would give my support. I was initially apprehensive because I did not want my village full of Peace Corps staff and trainees. I felt it a bit invasive, and selfishly wanted to spend my last few weeks in Leimatu’a peacefully with my villagers. After some time I realized that because my village is such a close-knit community it would be perfect for training purposes. I also thought that the “palangi” company of eight new Peace Corps trainees ultimately would be a nice deviation from the norm.

Last August word spread throughout Leimatu’a via the coconut wireless that eight families would be chosen to host Peace Corps trainees for six weeks beginning in mid-October. I was inundated with questions by curious Tongans about why there were eight Peace Corps trainees coming to stay in Leimatu’a. I explained that before I began my work in Vava’u I had lived with a family in Ha’apai for six weeks to learn the Tongan language and culture, and that the new volunteers were staying in Leimatu’a for the same reason.

After several interviews and home inspections the announcement of what families would receive Peace Corps Trainees was made. It was incredible to see how thrilled the families chosen to receive volunteers were. The great efforts of the selected families in preparing their homes were remarkable as well as the safety, security, and health requirements that need to be met before the trainees move in are quite extensive.

On October 14th eight Peace Corps trainees and two Tongan Language Trainers moved into Leimatu’a. Right from the beginning I felt solidarity with the new trainees. Peace Corps really is like a friend filter; you more often than not find yourself surrounded by likeminded fellow Americans with similar motives and ideals.

Witnessing the trainees during their first few incredibly overwhelming days thrown into a Tongan household with very little language skills, I remembered how extreme homestay is. Before long the trainees got their bearings and became more comfortable and confident living with their Tongan families.

I was surprised to see how quickly the trainees integrated into the Leimatu’a community. They actively participated in kava circles, funerals, weddings, feasts, birthday parties, and church services. Within one month a trainee named Eric had been named a Talking Chief, he now goes by Funga Sione. Another trainee, Marloucha, was the Tongan equivalent of a Maid of Honor at her homestay sister’s wedding. A trainee named Shawn had the honor of naming his homestay mother’s baby after his grandmother. Had the baby been a boy, he would have been named after Shawn.

A Tongan language trainer named Poli who had never been in Leimatu’a was shocked by how well the trainees were being received. Often the homestay families invited us and the entire group of trainees to birthday and wedding celebrations. Twice Poli openly cried during her traditional thank you speech, as the families had clearly gone above and beyond in their preparations.

While walking home after a birthday party that had been thrown for one for the trainees named Alicia, Poli told me that she believed the reason they were being so well received was because I had done such good work in Leimatu’a. With over 1,300 people living in Leimatu’a, Poli was happy to see that that everyone knew who I was and respected my work. The recognition from Poli was very nice. I realized that night that had I not gained the respect of my villagers it was unlikely there would have been so much excitement about the arrival of eight new Peace Corps trainees in Leimatu’a.

It was a lot of fun to share my village with eight new trainees. In addition to hanging out at the “Faka-Tonga” events, I hosted a couple of dinner parties – a definite first in Tonga. The trainees had many questions for me, and many times apologized for the constant flow of inquiries. I was more than happy to share my thoughts and experiences; answering their questions gave me the opportunity to reflect on my two years as a Peace Corps volunteer in Tonga and articulate ideas I had never contemplated before.

One recurring question within the Peace Corps Tonga community that came up during discussions with the trainees was whether or not I believe Peace Corps belongs in Tonga. This question often stems from the fact that Peace Corps has been in Tonga for over 40 years. I personally believe that Peace Corps Volunteers belong in any developing country where they are welcome.

Peace Corps was established by President John F. Kennedy on March 1, 1961 as a means of providing trained Americans to help people in developing countries meet their needs in addition to promoting world peace and friendship, to which there simply is no limit.

Kai Tunu

2008-11-21T22:22:00.000-08:00

Tongans rarely go to the beach for recreation. One the rare occasion a group of Tongans go to the beach, however, they go all out. Religious holidays and special occasions are the two most common reasons Tongans will go to spend the afternoon at the beach. Contrary to the beach going habits of Americans, Tongans prefer to go to the beach when it’s cloudy (preferably raining) and in the late afternoon to avoid too much sunshine.

Yesterday I went to Keitahi Beach for one last “Kai Tunu”. The special occasion was the culmination of six weeks of homestay eight Peace Corps trainees had spent in the village of Leimatu’a. The eight trainees, their Tongan families and I spent the afternoon swimming, sunning, smiling- and of course, eating…

The first time I went to Keitahi was during my first few days living in Vava’u. While walking down the road one of my neighbors asked me a question in Tongan that I did not completely understand. I picked up on the words “ocean”, “eat”, and “swimming” and told her simply “io” (yes). An hour or so later I heard my name being called from a car in the road in front of my house. I had not realized we would be driving to the beach, as I was so new to the island that I thought there was a beach within walking distance. After nearly 20 minutes in the car we made our way down a very steep dirt road, barely wide enough for one car, let alone two way traffic. Twice we had to put the car in reverse and backtrack to make way for giant trucks full of Tongan, speeding up the muddy hill.

Once we reached the bottom of the “road” the trees cleared and I saw a breathtaking view of the ocean and endless stretch of beach. Crystal clear blue waters, white soft sand, green palm trees swaying against the baby blue sky; Keitahi truly is paradise.

I was extremely overwhelmed my first time going to Keitahi. I did not realize I would be gone for the entire day, I honestly did not know at that point that the island of Vava’u was big enough for a 20 minute car ride. I have become much easygoing after the past two years, typically not knowing or caring where I am going or for how long I will be there. That day, however, after swimming a bit and eating some roast pig I proceeded to sleep. The dramatic landscape, huge amounts of people, foreign food, and unattended children swimming made me extremely anxious (With good reason, I suppose, as at one “kai tunu” at Talihau beach a little girl from my village nearly drowned).

There have been many occasions where I will go to Keitahi with friends and we will be the only people there. On one amazing beach day last year, my friend Jessica and I saw whales in the distance. Other times, the beach is full of Tongans frolicking in the water, jumping off the huge rocks into the water, and of course, eating kai tunu.

“Kai Tunu” literally translates to “eat roast”, however, it usually means to have a picnic. The roasting typically does not take place on the beach. Tongans typically spend the morning at home, roasting pigs and preparing food to be packed into coolers. Sometimes, however, if it is a very special occasion Tongans will build a fire and actually roast pig or lamb shanks on the beach.

After a few hours of swimming and playing in the ocean we were ready for some lunch. On the menu: hot dogs, potato salad, fried chicken, corned beef (naturally), pineapple, watermelon, hard boiled eggs, sweet potatoes, spaghetti, sandwiches, cake, and ice cream.

I am very happy to have had the chance to spend the afternoon at the beach, soaking in the sun and scenery with my villagers and newest members of the Peace Corps Tonga community.

Vava'u Market

2008-11-16T14:06:00.000-08:00

Among the many aspects of my Peace Corps life I will miss after I return to the United States, shopping at the Vava’u market is going to be one thing I miss the most. Lettuce, carrots, potatoes, squash, pumpkin, tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, green beans, cabbage, peppers, avocado, watermelon, pineapple, papaya, bananas, mangoes, oranges, star fruit, limes, and passion fruit are available – but never all at once. I ultimately have accepted there is a mere three month period when I can make a salad consisting of both tomatoes and peppers.

I have developed a newfound appreciation for eating foods that are in season, recognizing how fresh fruits and vegetables are supposed to taste in their natural state. I have also recognized the financial benefit of buying fruits and vegetables that are in season. Throughout November and December you can buy up to five pineapples for $4 Tongan pa’anga (about $2 US). If I wanted to buy a pineapple before or after the season is in full swing, however, the cost can go up to $10 for one pineapple and the fruit is nowhere near as delicious.

The fair majority of people who sell their goods at the market come from my village. Everyone knows my name and asks with genuine interest how I am and what I am doing during my trips to the market. Many times have to force people to take my money for their goods and I almost always leave with a complimentary watermelon, head of cabbage, or a zucchini along with my other purchases.

Last year I realized how strikingly different shopping at a big grocery store is in comparison to what I’ve grown accustomed to over the past two years at the local market. Soon after my return home for the holidays last year, I naively offered to go grocery shopping for my mother to help with Christmas dinner preparations. As soon as those giant automatic doors slid open I realized I had made a horrible, horrible decision. I stood there frozen, taking in the sights and smells of “Super Stop and Shop” with a look of horror on my face. In one short year how could a place that had been so familiar become so completely foreign?

Initially the grocery list my mother had given me seemed simple enough; however, once I slowly started making my way through the many aisles of the enormous and very crowded store, each and every item presented a problem. Walnuts, apparently, come in several varieties: whole, halved, crushed, etc. While struggling to use a hanging scale to weigh five pounds of potatoes I had tirelessly placed in a green bag, my aunt and uncle auspiciously appeared and pointed out the location of the already bagged and weighed potatoes before I could make too much of an ass out of myself. Once out of the produce section I thought I was home free, but no such luck. My traumatic shopping experience culminated when I noticed that in place of the “cookie club” table I had frequented as a child stood a Starbuck’s kiosk. I knew it was time to go home.

Upon return to Tonga after the New Year I compared war stories with other volunteers about our trips home. I soon realized that grocery shopping experiences were collectively the most difficult example of “reverse culture shock” experienced. My friend Jessica said that when her mother had simply asked her to get some carrots she became perplexed, even angry, at the many different varieties of carrots available; shredded, baby, with stems, without stems, sticks, etc. It was the superfluous assortment of Oreo cookies that had put her over the edge.

Obama-Rama!

2008-11-09T19:20:00.000-08:00

The day Barack Obama was elected the 44th President of the United States of America was one of the best days of my life. I, along with approximately 50 other Americans, watched CNN election coverage unfold via Satellite television at Mango Bar & Restaurant in Neiafu, Vava’u. I cannot think of another time in my life where I felt such relief, happiness, and camaraderie all at once.

There were collectively over 30 Peace Corps Volunteers and trainees, representing nearly half of the 50 states. Many of us jumped into Neiafu harbor at the conclusion of Obama’s acceptance speech in celebration, followed by a soaking wet impromptu dance party.

Over the past few months I have followed the election coverage as best as possible from a remote island in the south pacific. Words cannot describe how thrilled I am to have a President that I, along with much of the world, believe in. I had lost faith in our democracy but that faith has been restored. I am now even more excited about returning to the states next month and am proud to be an American for the first time in a very, very long time.

COS & 'Eua Trip

2008-10-29T03:17:00.000-07:00

Last week I attended the Close of Service Conference for Peace Corps Tonga Group 72. Although we live on different island groups and have had dissimilar experiences over the past two years, whenever the nine remaining members of group 72 get together we enjoy sharing our experiences living and working in Tonga. The conference was held at Likualofa Resort on the main island of Tongatapu and was the perfect opportunity for the group to catch up, relax, and prepare for life after Peace Corps.

The majority of our conference dealt with life after Peace Corps, with resume and interview help being the most significant component of the program. During the conference we took the Myers-Briggs personality test to discover what types of careers fit well with our diverse characteristics. I discovered that I have an “Extraverted Feeling with Introverted Sensing” personality. My knack for organization and outgoing persona apparently makes working with small children and bi-lingual education a fitting career choice. This insight into my personality is extremely reassuring as I consider a future in teaching English as a Second Language.

It is a bit daunting thinking about returning to the states after volunteering in Tonga for two years, however, the conference offered some much needed closure. Luckily the Peace Corps coordinator for the island of Vava’u where I've been living for the past two years was able to attend our close of service certificate ceremony and serenade his Vava’u girls one last time.

Shortly after the conference concluded the first member of group 72 to officially complete her service, Sarah Kate, left Tonga. To celebrate Sarah Kate’s completion of service some of us hired a taxi for the afternoon to tour some of the archeological sites on the main island of Tongatapu before Sarah Kate's flight home.

This past weekend I traveled to the island of ‘Eua with my friend Jessica. The island of ‘Eua is located a 40km boat ride off the southern coast of the island of Tongatapu, and is said to be approximately 10 million years older than the rest of the islands comprising the Kingdom of Tonga. The untouched natural beauty of ‘Eua is extraordinary and is the perfect destination for hiking, caving, rock climbing, bird watching, whale watching, biking, camping, or simply lounging on the beach, and is well worth the three hour, slightly nauseous boat ride.

Luckily as soon as we arrived to the island Jessica and I ran into Jason, a volunteer from group 73 who works closely with the Ministry of Tourism in an effort to make ‘Eua an eco-tourism destination.

Although Jessica and I only had one full day to take in the sights, Jason made sure we made the most of our short stay, guiding us to many well-known sites including a giant banyan tree which we climbed, “rat’s cave”, a stunning waterfall as well as several spectacular lookouts. Luckily we spotted the elusive green parrot indigenous only to ‘Eua during our walk through the rainforest.

After our morning hike we joined a tour of the south of the island where we saw wild horses as well as whales playing, among countless other breathtaking sites. Altogether we walked well over ten miles, a very long yet wonderful day!

B&W Hunga Photos

2008-10-14T20:58:00.000-07:00

Last Trip to Hunga

2008-10-12T17:47:00.001-07:00

Last week my good friend Jessica and I made our final trip to the island of Hunga to visit Sarah Kate who will be finishing her work in Tonga this month. The trip was the perfect combination of relaxing island getaway coupled with extreme outer island cultural experience that I’ve come to expect in my visits to Hunga.

The two hour boat ride to the island was thankfully uneventful. Clear skies and seas and a nearly empty boat offered the perfect environment to do some much needed catching up.

Upon arrival to the island we made our last walk up “the hill” from the lagoon to the village – an infamously muddy and steep trek that’s nearly ½ mile long. We were at once greeted enthusiastically by about 20 unaccompanied small children.

The kids predictably followed us to Sarah Kate’s house and bestowed us with gifts of fresh papaya, mangoes, and flowers for an hour before we asked for some time to rest. After dinner the three of us sat around Sarah Kate’s transistor radio hoping for some coverage of the presidential debate that had taken place that day. I noted how faka-1930’s it was of us to be sitting around the radio, awaiting news of our future president - a far cry from the SAT TV at Mango Restaurant where I’ve been getting my election coverage lately. We ultimately did get to hear some clips from the debate, something about Barack Obama and jello- politics as usual.

The next morning the three of us set off in search of a tiny isolated patch of beach located on Hunga’s west coast. Sarah Kate had been there only one time and it had been over ago but the three of us had high hopes we would be successful in our mission of having a “palangi” beach day, no matter how high the odds were against us i.e. no decipherable trail to the beach...

After over two hours of walking we were pointed in the right direction, so to speak, by five semi-aggressive giant bulls and found what we were looking for- paradise!

After a full day of wandering (somewhat) aimlessly around the island, lounging in the sun, and floating in the ocean (my personal favorite) we made our way back to the village. As soon as we arrived we were greeted by children who had been looking for us all day in the hopes that we would go swimming with them. The Hunga kids have great memories, apparently, as the previous day when we thought we were tired we had asked them to wait until tomorrow to go swimming, however, words cannot describe the exhaustion I felt on that second day after our little island excursion.

On the way to go swimming we had a “snack” of fresh mangoes – Hunga is one of the only places in Tonga that mangoes are currently so plentiful and ripe.

After an hour or so of swimming at the wharf we made our way back to Sarah Kate’s house for some much needed bucket baths and dinner.

It was an incredible couple of days. I’m so grateful I’ve had the opportunity to visit Sarah Kate and share a bit of her Peace Corps experience on the idyllic island of Hunga.

On the boat ride back to town Jessica and I were fortunate to see humpback whales breaching. So beautiful!

Cooking with the Kids

2008-10-06T17:31:00.000-07:00

Many volunteers have a difficult time opening their homes to village children. Often this choice is based solely on logistics, as the homes of some volunteers are sometimes so small they could not have guests even if they wanted. More often than not, however, it is the desire of a volunteer to maintain order and privacy that prevents them from allowing children inside their homes.

My hospitality has fluctuated dramatically over the past two years. Initially, I allowed anyone and everyone into my home. Once it became more tiresome to have guests than it was pleasant to have the company, I started to deter people from visiting. My home became my sanctuary, and I cherished my alone time.

After a while I realized the all-or-nothing attitude on houseguests I had developed was not ideal, as my solitude was not as reassuring as I had initially thought it to be. Annoyed by the constant knocks on my door at all hours, I decided to satiate the desire of the neighborhood kids to visit, and my wish to have some (but not too much) company by agreeing that every Thursday I would host art, reading and baking lessons.

These Thursday evening get-togethers have proven to be an amazing way for the children to practice their English in an informal and non-threatening learning environment. The time together has also developed into an informal health education class, where I teach proper hand washing and dishwashing techniques, both hygiene practices that are unfortunately absent from most Tongan kitchens.

Although at times catering to the children’s continuous questions and requests can be exhausting, I have grown to appreciate their inquisitiveness and energy. I am continuously touched by the delight Tongan children find in the smallest exchanges and what most would consider insignificant experiences. I will miss these joyous Thursday evenings most when I leave Tonga in December.

Ovaka Island Trip Photos

2008-09-22T22:18:00.000-07:00

My Neighbor Fuiongo

2008-09-22T20:23:00.000-07:00

Last year I was surprised to find a little old woman living in the previously uninhabited and decrepit house adjacent to mine. In Tonga people rarely live alone, so a 75 year-old woman living unaccompanied is extremely uncommon. Almost a year from our original meeting Fuiongo remains a bit of an enigma.

When I host volunteers for dinner I make a point to introduce them to my neighbor Fuiongo; the toothless 75 year-old woman living without electricity or water, who will tell you you are gorgeous and read your palm. Fuiongo is a witch doctor and a devout Christian, yet another classic contradiction within this extremely conservative culture. With Fuiongo I have both translated the better half of Tongan Genesis and watched her tell fortunes via card and palm readings. Fuiongo is also renowned for administering Tongan medicine. I often hear Fuiongo using a makeshift mortar and pestle, creating a variety of concoctions intended cure everything from chicken pox to headaches. When I get blisters, Fuinongo takes notice and without fail produces a curious mixture of crushed leaves, among other things. My hearty display of Neosporin and Band-Aids is no match for Fuiongo’s faith in the wonders of Tongan medicine, and with a sigh of defeat I relinquish my ankles to Fuiongo’s green, gooey leaf encrusted fingers.

Fuiongo is concerned about my wellbeing and often goes out of her way to ensure I am taken care of. I typically receive plates full of tasteless boiled root crops and canned fish, however, Fuiongo has been known to periodically present me with mangoes, bananas, noodles, and crackers, among other much less decipherable dishes. Although Fuiongo more often than not appears at my doorway bearing culinary offerings, occasionally she merely has a question. Inquiries as to the time, day, date, and most recently, the month (“Yes, Fuiongo, Friday the 19th of September”) are recurrent.

There are two activities I am typically engaged in during Fuiongo’s unswerving early morning visits, on average between the hours of 6am and 8am. The first (and favorite) pastime is soundly sleeping. Once acclimated to late night wails of children and early morning crows of roosters, I have made a concerted and successful effort to sleep a solid nine hours every night. The subsequent pastime I am regrettably not as dedicated to as I am my enviable sleep schedule is my post-run sit-ups routine. I used to be irritated by Fuiongo’s persistent knocking on my door. The facets of Tongan culture regarding lack of annoyance with which waking people up from sleep or stopping by uninvited are viewed have been difficult to adjust to. Recently, however, I have grown to appreciate Fuiongo’s perpetual food offerings and inquiries as part of my morning routine, and if I am not woken up in the midst of a dream or interrupted mid-sit-up I feel derelict for the rest of the day.

Fuiongo helped me prepare for our dance practices which did not only comprise of dressing me in all that sparkles and shines but dousing me in perfume as well.

Fuiongo warmly received my father on his very memorable first day in Tonga (yes, that's a giant roast pig covered with lobsters and hardboiled eggs on the table).

Bush Walk Photos

2008-09-18T16:51:00.000-07:00

Outer Island Living

2008-09-14T15:25:00.000-07:00

I am a member of the 72nd group of Peace Corps Volunteers to serve in the Kingdom of Tonga. Initially I was shocked at how much I had in common with the others in my group. All but one of us is female, many are from the New England area, and the vast majority of us were born in the 80’s. There is one volunteer in particular, Sarah Kate, who shares striking similarities with me - with the exception of hair color. Sarah Kate and I (nearly) have the same name, were born in 1984, and both come from Connecticut.

After living in Tonga for nearly two years Sarah Kate and I have little in common anymore, at least in terms of our day to day life. Sarah Kate is one out of five volunteers currently serving in Tonga who lives on an “outer island”. On a bi-monthly basis my water does not work properly, and on at least a weekly basis my electricity is out. Running water and electricity are not even options for Sarah Kate who must “bucket bathe”, use a pit latrine, carry water inside for dish washing and adjust to a very early bedtime - among countless other implications that go along with outer island life, such as dining and bathing by candlelight for non-romantic reasons :)

I am extremely impressed with Sarah Kate's adaptation to this lifestyle, her determination and positive outlook. Throughout training I knew that outer-island life was not for me, yet Sarah Kate was adamant that living on an outer island was the type of experience she wanted. I am extremely grateful that my Peace Corps experience involves electricity, showers, and flush toilets – not to mention consistent internet access, ice cream, cell phones and the option to spend time with other volunteers.

Last week I went to visit Sarah Kate on her island, a two hour boat ride from the capital of Neiafu depending on the weather. As the only native English speaker on the island of about 100, save the lone American Mormon Missionary, Sarah Kate was very thankful for some “palangi time” and conversation. More often than not, Sarah Kate will stay on her island as opposed to coming into town. Personally, I thrive on discussions with fellow volunteers about my life in the village and cannot imagine how I could survive without conversing with other volunteers on a weekly basis.

Sarah Kate’s villagers are some of the most genuinely friendly, generous, and grateful people I have ever had the pleasure of knowing. There is an axiom in Tonga that the farther you are from the capitol cities, the more friendly the Tongans are. Sarah Kate’s island holds true to the adage, as she lives as far away from Neiafu as you can get while still being part of the Vava’u island group.

Home Sweet Home?

2008-09-09T14:21:00.000-07:00

Despite steel wire covering all of my windows and three locks on my door I felt threatened throughout my first year in Tonga. I felt so vulnerable that I did not venture out to use my bathroom after dark. I was afraid because anyone who thought to do harm could easily crawl under my home to lurk in the shadows of my cement bathroom, not to mention persistent pouring rain, vicious dogs, and creepy crawlies.

I have ultimately grown comfortable in my own skin and feel at home in my “two bedroom” hurricane resistance house. Likely constructed decades ago by a New Zealand Aid organization and occupied by both Peace Corps Volunteers and Tongans alike, these structures are omnipresent throughout the kingdom. Basic yet entirely practical, my little wooden home provides not only shelter, privacy and security, but as my first residence I can claim as my own, I am afforded the luxury of complete and utter independence. Upon the death of my third and final “pet” dog, I have not had a living being actively noting my comings and goings in well over a year. No roommates to disturb or mother to inquire as to my whereabouts upon arrival home. Free at last.

Characteristic of most hurricane resistant homes, I have an “open air” ceiling - make that no ceiling at all. Exposed wooden beams offer structural support and significant aesthetic value. For reasons I may never understand, half of the walls in my house fail to connect to the roof, leaving a gap well over a foot long in length. Also absent within the confines of my exceptionally humble abode are doors, but what is the need for privacy when you live alone?

I suppose I do not technically live alone. I share my home with numerous brown spiders, geckos, cockroaches (both massive and minuscule in variety) and most regrettably, rats. There is great debate within the Peace Corps Tonga community as to what is worse, the spiders or the cockroaches. I prefer the spiders, you cannot hear them scurrying around at night like you can the colossal cockroaches. Furthermore, spiders have not evolved to fly, a terrifyingly freakish tendency of the cockroaches here. Rats are undeniably the worst type of houseguest, as they make little attempt to make their presence unknown. I presumably could lead a more pest-free life if I were to purchase Mortein, a powerful poison spray that keeps unwanted visitors at bay. Personally I believe that cancer concerns trump any apprehension I have about harmless vermin. I have adjusted to life cohabitating with my all too gracious guests, however, it should be noted that I am not above purchasing and using excessive amounts of rat poison.

I currently feel so content I sometimes forget to close my door at night. Around the same time my fears surrounding living alone dissipated, so did my concerns about exercising and hitchhiking alone. It is only a slight exaggeration to say that the entire populace of Vava’u knows me by name. I have been welcomed so warmly that it is difficult to accept any threat to my welfare at all, save the lone rat.

It is refreshing to live without the “bad guy is going to get you” mentality held by so many Americans. I do take proper precautions, however. No hitchhiking or running past sundown, I make a point to lock my door at night, dress conservatively, etc. I am not completely ignorant of risks involved with being a young woman living alone in a foreign country, however, it seems as though I have ended up in one of the most pleasant places on earth. Apparently Captain Cook didn’t nickname the Kingdom of Tonga “The Friendly Islands” for nothing!

Village Life

2008-09-07T17:12:00.000-07:00

Big Doings

2008-09-01T00:36:00.000-07:00

There was a time in my life when I had every single minute of my day allotted to accomplishing a task i.e. Colby-Sawyer circa 2006. During this heyday of academic bliss my schedule was so jam-packed that showers were few and far between and exhaustion was a constant state being. My monthly, weekly, daily – even hourly – roles and responsibilities were explicit and needed to be met without delay.

In Tonga my schedule is rarely set in stone. Like most South Pacific Island cultures Tongans operate on “island time”. There is no need to wear a watch in Tonga because it is impossible to be late. Leaving such a hectic existence to find myself in the Kingdom of Tonga where paradoxically “Time Begins” but doesn’t seem to matter much at all has been trying. During my first few weeks living alone in my village I barely even knew how to make my way around my new neighborhood let alone discern any sort of set role or responsibilities within my new community. Not having an agenda should have been invigorating but all I felt was anxiety and restlessness. Instead of basking in my newfound freedom I found myself compulsively finding things to do around the house to keep me busy and give structure to my day, namely hand washing my clothing. I don’t think I had one piece of dirty laundry my first month at site…

Ultimately I have learned how to relax and enjoy the lack of structure in my life. I have realized that not knowing what the near future holds is as exciting as it is unique. Not many people in the world can wake up not having a clue what their day is going to entail and experience anything half as out of the ordinary as I have while living in this island kingdom.

Friday morning while delivering photos my mother had recently sent I was surprised to see my neighbor Vika preparing for what could only be one thing- a Tongan feast. I was soon informed that it was “Misionales” and would I be going?! I was to be at the church at 2 for the church service with the feast to follow.

Misionales is when Tongan families give the majority of their savings to the church. I happen to live in a village infamous for its lively and ostentatious population and was highly entertained throughout service when those who did not give enough money were jokingly threatened by one of Leimatu'a’s finest using toy grenades, machine guns and plastic knives. The amount of money a family gives is announced to the entire congregation by the minister, much to their pride or chagrin based on the size of the contribution.

After almost three hours of preaching, hymn singing, and cash donating it was time to eat. The church hall was prepared with easily hundreds of thousands of pa’anga worth of food and we all sat down on the ground and feasted to some classic feast food items including but not limited to the following: roast pig, fried chicken, hot dogs, fried eggs, yam, potato salad, lu, bread fruit, crab salad, raw fish, sweet potato, lobster, sweet & sour chicken, octopus, fried fish, hard boiled eggs, sausage, watermelon, pineapple, apples, chocolate bars and imitation cheetos- delicious…

While at the feast I was reminded of the koniseti “concert” that was being held that evening. The concert was being put on by Silakivai, the organization responsible for the computer lab where I work among various other community projects. The sole purpose of this koniseti was to raise funds to help pay for the duty on a new school bus so the high school students can stop having to hitch rides into town to go to school. The old school bus, which was once used for Auckland’s public transportation system many years ago, has been out of commission for almost a year now. With the help of Silakivai members living overseas a new school bus has been procured, however, the duty to ship the vehicle to Tonga is so great there has been a regrettable postponement getting the bus to Vava’u.

During a koniseti the MC announces the upcoming dancer’s family name and people place cash donations on the person dancing based on their performance. For such a conservative culture dancing for money is prevalent, and ironic. There are undoubtedly some astonishing dancers in my village; over $10,000 pa’anga was raised that night! Hopefully it will be enough to pay the duty but converted into New Zealand dollars I don’t think it is as significant an amount.

The koniseti ended around midnight- the end to an unexpectedly interesting day, not the first and definitely not the last I’m sure!

Vava'u Vacation:)

2008-08-27T15:49:00.000-07:00

Sharing Tongan culture with Americans back home is one of the three main missions of Peace Corps. What better way to teach about the Kingdom of Tonga than to have friends and family come and experience island life with you firsthand? I have been extremely fortunate to have had my mother and brother visit last August, my friend Leanne stop through on her way home from Antarctica in March, my father visit just this past May, and most recently three of my best childhood friends come and visit. The time, cost, and effort it takes to get to the Kingdom of Tonga is significant, and I feel extremely fortunate to have had friends and family willing to make the commitment to come and see what I've been up to on this tiny little island. My friends and family are also fortunate in that I happen to live in one of the most incredible places in the world. Here's a glimpse at what we got up to over the past week:

Day One:

Wednesday, August 20^th was our first full day together and was spent swimming, lounging and catching up at the Tongan Beach resort. We had a delicious lunch of the meatloaf, green bean salad and potato salad- all left over from the king's dinner the previous evening. The meal was literally fit for a king – and free! Coincidently right after we finished our meal the King & co. made their way past the island on a boat making their way back from a day of island hopping.

Wednesday night we had an amazing dinner at the Dancing Rooster and the girls had their first taste of traditional Tongan food and thankfully found it to their liking! After dinner we went to the Block Party that was held to celebrate the recent coronation of King George Tupou IV in downtown Neiafu, literally right outside the door of our backpacker’s accommodation. Making our way around the block we got to see traditional Tongan dancing and some not so traditional Tongan dancing, all of which was highly entertaining.

Day Two:

Thursday, August 21^st was spent in my village. The girls got to see my house (such as it is), meet my neighbors, visit the computer lab where I work, and generally get a taste of "village life". Luckily that day we were performing the Lakalaka for the third and final time at the airport to send off King George Tupou IV on the end of his kingdom wide tour celebrating his recent coronation. The girls had their own little private performance of our song & dance routine and also got to see the king up close!

Thursday night was attended the 25^th Annual Neiafu Public Library Fundraiser held at the Paradise Hotel. My PC coordinator and his band were playing at the event so we got to show off our incredible dance moves whilst supporting a good cause.

Day Three:

Friday, August 22^nd we chartered the yacht Orion and spent the day beaching, kayaking, caving and sailing among countless dolphins- a definite highlight.

Day Four:

Saturday, August 23^rd we made our way to Kenutu for a night of camping with a small group of other volunteers. The picturesque uninhabited island is one of my favorite spots in Vava'u and camping there is one of my favorite things to do. I'm glad I had the opportunity to share such an incredible experience with the girls.

Day Five:

Sunday, August 24^th after swimming and beaching all day we made our way back from Kenutu on a little Tongan wooden boat and quickly showered before heading to dinner at my friend Jason's house for some traditional Japanese food. We have a group of volunteers leaving soon so the dinner served as an informal going away party.

Day Six:

Monday, August 25^th was undoubtedly the best day ever. We went out with Dolphin Pacific Diving in the hopes of swimming with humpback whales. Tonga is one of the only places in the world that swimming with humpback whales in not prohibited. I did not have my hopes up as I did not want to be disappointed if we didn't see anything. Not only was I a little nervous about participating in such a seemingly dangerous and extreme activity, but I have mixed emotions regarding the ethics of whale swimming, as whales in Tonga are here for the sole purpose of breeding and if they waste energy avoiding boats and swimmers they may not have enough strength to return to the Antarctic to feed.

Early on in the day we got word that there were whales near 'Euaeiki, the island where we were to spend the night at Treasure Island Eco Resort. Sure enough we spent the day observing a mother, calf and escort and got extremely close (perhaps a little too close!) to the whales. Swimming with whales was an indescribable rush and I am so happy that we had such a great day, as other people we spoke with who went out with other operators had had very little luck. Typical whale watching is extremely hit or miss so successful whale swimming experiences are an even more dubious mission. Not only were we able to see whales breaching, fin slapping and spy hopping repeatedly, but we were able to get in the water and see whales swim by (and below!) us. Ultimately I think that whale watching and whale swim is beneficial for the whales, as the financial gain Tonga receives through tourism is so great there is little chance Japan will ever be allowed to hunt whales in Tongan waters.

Because our tour group had had such a successful morning with the whales we were able to spend the majority of the afternoon snorkeling and lounging around the island of 'Euakafa. Later in the afternoon we were dropped off at Treasure Island Resort on 'Euaeiki and had an incredible evening fine dining, star gazing, and of course, continuing to catch one another on the past eight months!

Day Seven

Tuesday, August 26^th we made our way back to the mainland for some serious errands. All souvenirs and gifts to bring back home were purchased. We ended our trip with our customary home cooked Mexican meal. I loved that the previous evening we had steak for dinner at one of the nicest resorts in Tonga and there we were making tacos at the backpackers and were just as content– we truly are a malleable group! It was the perfect end to a perfect week together, we honestly couldn't have asked for more!

For various reasons the four of us were all in need of a getaway and some quality time together. I know I didn't have to travel as great a distance as everyone else for the trip but ultimately my time spent with them engaging in "faka-palangi" activities was a mental holiday for sure. We are all so much better off for having spent the past week sailing, sunning, star gazing, and smiling together.

I realized our last night together that from this point on in our lives nothing is going to get any easier and that the difficulties and stresses we're going through now are just preparing for what is yet to come. I know this is a fairly discouraging realization to share, however, it has reaffirmed my belief of the importance of vacations and enjoying life to the fullest whenever possible. My oh my am I lucky to have lived in a place where it's easy to celebrate the little things in life on a daily basis while living in an setting that could easily be described as tropical paradise :)

Having the opportunity to share with people from home where I live, what I do, and introducing them to the Peace Corps Volunteers and Tongans who have become my network of support here is extremely important. I know that because I have been able to bridge both worlds together, so to speak, it will be easier to readjust to life back home upon my return to the states and am extremely grateful.

I am here until December, anyone else in need a vacation?!

Tongan "Putu" Funeral

2008-07-21T22:10:00.000-07:00

The first Tongan funeral I went to was during my first month of service. Everyone kept talking about the upcoming “putu” for a well-known older woman in my village. I knew putu meant funeral but had no idea what to expect, as my Tongan was not very good and I had no way of asking questions or completely understanding what people said. The husband and wife who prepared my house and helped me adjust to life in Tonga, Pesa and Moana, came to get me on their way to the funeral with their daughter Kamalita. It was Pesa and Moana who picked me up when I first arrived to Vava’u and because they only have one daughter they quickly started calling me their “daughter”, as having only one child in Tonga is uncommon and not deemed acceptable. During my first few weeks living in my village Pesa and Moana would come and pick me up to have dinner or watch movies at their home, go to town to sit in front of Moana’s brother’s store or drive to the village where Moana grew up and spend time with her family. I would have had a much harder time adjusting to living alone in a foreign country if they hadn’t made such an effort to keep me company those first few weeks in Vava'u.

When we arrived to the funeral I was shocked to see the tremendous number of people, well over 200. Most people were eating at large tables set up under tents, others were sitting on the ground singing hymns. I sat down with Moana, Pesa and a small group of people who were vaguely familiar while they sang. There were different groups of people sitting together taking turns singing songs without any obvious rhyme or reason as to whose turn it was. After a half an hour or so of singing the group I was with got up and we sat down under one of the tents and we were handed plastic bags full of an odd assortment of meats, root crops, and hard boiled eggs as well as hot tea and juice. After we finished our “tea” we went to a pile of tapa cloth, shiny material, and quilts. Someone handing me a folded up tapa cloth and I followed suit as everyone starting walking in a line holding their items towards a little house. As we approached the house I could hear hysterical crying growing louder and louder. I couldn’t see very far in front of me because it was very crowded but as soon as I was inside the house I realized that everyone in the line ahead of me was setting down the things they were holding next to a dead body, kneeling down, and “kissing” the corpse (in Tonga no one kisses, but rather they press their faces cheek to cheek against one another and breathe in deeply through their nose). I followed the example of those in front of me without really thinking about what it is that I was doing. I don’t think any explanation could have prepared me fully for what happened but in retrospect my lack of preparedness was probably for the best, as I didn’t have any time to stress about my impending contact with a dead woman. After my experience with the corpse I sat back down with the group as they sang after a half an hour or so we got up and ate again. This routine continued on for hours, literally. The funeral was supposed to go until sunrise at which point they would bury the body but I knew I couldn’t last that long. At about 2am I asked if I could go home. Pesa and Moana asked if I would take their nine year old daughter home with me, as it was a school night and very late. I tried saying no, as I was in definite need of a shower and some alone time, but I ultimately caved in and went home with my little Tongan “sister” and tried to get some sleep.

After attending a few more funerals everything started to make a little more sense and became a lot less overwhelming. At my second funeral I realized the group I was sitting with were singing songs I didn’t recognize. It turns out the groups of people singing are the different congregations of different people from various villages. I inadvertently sat with the Mormons at one funeral and that was a lesson learned for sure. I realized the vaguely familiar group from my first funeral were all from the Chruch of Tonga that I regularly attend, as it is close to my house and most of my neighbors go there. I now know that the tapa cloth, blankets and other items are gifts that people give to show their respect.

This week I attended a funeral for Moana’s brother, Nita, who was murdered last Friday night in the capitol of Vava'u, Neiafu. There are a few bars downtown and it can get fairly rowdy on Friday nights but someone getting beat to death is very out of the ordinary and unsettling to say the least. This is the first funeral I have attended that I actually knew the person who died. I was not very close to Nita at all but am extremely close to his sister, two brothers, and three children ‘Anaseini, Mele, and Vakapuna who have been living in my village for over a year being raised by their aunt Moana. It is very common for family members to raise children that aren’t theirs as their own, especially if they don’t have many children of their own.

I have always wanted to take pictures at the Tongan funerals I’ve attended because they are such momentous occasions but have never felt comfortable doing so. Moana and her family asked me to document Nita’s funeral so I did not feel invasive at all documenting the event. I took a lot of pictures and have posted those that best illustrate what Tongan funerals are like.

Dance Fever

2008-07-16T21:42:00.000-07:00

One factor of Peace Corps service that many volunteers have a difficult time with is an excessive amount of free time. The only way I have stayed sane out in my village, that with good reason feels like the middle of nowhere, is by participating in cultural activities and events. This has not always been the case, as last year when invited to join in on the goings on within my village I often refrained or did not completely immerse myself in the activity by arriving late or leaving early to traditional dance practices or koniseti “concert” fundraisers. In Tonga there is never a set schedule and the lack of structure and “waste of time” made me feel restless. It was not until recently that I have taken a more serious and receptive approach to participating in cultural events in my village community.

An example of my newfound willingness to participate in "faka-tonga" activities is my current attempt to learn the traditional “Lakalaka” dance that is to be performed for the king’s coronation next month. Last year when attending practices for the traditional “Haka” sitting dance I never seriously considered taking the time or making the effort to learn the dance well enough to perform for a crowd. This year, however, I have made a serious commitment to myself and my villagers in learning the dance and have been attending about 15-20 hours of practice per week for the last couple of months. Initially when I started going to the rehearsals there were only 15-20 of us. Now there are close to 100 people singing and dancing away night after night. The rehearsals never start when they are supposed to and there is a lot of sitting around, chit chatting, joking, and drinking soda in between the real practice. Instead of growing impatient over the lack of structure and organization I have grown to appreciate the fact that everyone is happy to just be hanging out together. It is remarkable that such a large group of people, ages from about 15 to 55, happily participate in the same activity and are perfectly content to spend their time and energy dancing together.

The dance when performed start to finish is over ten minutes long and is set to a ten verses written by my village chief’s son for the coronation of King George Tupou V. The song lyrics describe notable landmarks within the Vava’u island group and express the happiness and significance surrounding the historic coronation. As the only pacific island never to be colonized, I view the upcoming coronation of Tonga's king as an extremely significant event and am both excited and honored to be a part of the upcoming festivities.

I try and be a good sport and let the women dress me up like a paper doll, however, sometimes it can be a little overwhelming. I cannnot believe how well my friend Ana captured the moment taking this photo. Note the forced smile... Classic.

Usually my neighbor and unlikely best friend in the village, 75 year-old Fuiongo, comes over to help me get ready before practice. None of my clothes are shiny or sparkly enough so people have started sewing and bringing me some pretty flashy outfits.

A Faka-Explanation

2008-07-14T21:00:00.000-07:00

I am certain that my choice in naming my blog has caused some confusion back home. Faka is a prefix in the Tongan language that denotes likeness, causation, supplying, and having. Over 22 out of 112 pages of my Tongan dictionary are devoted to faka-words, 848 faka words in total - yes, I counted. There are faka words I frequently use such as fakamolemole (sorry), fakakatape (just joking), fakahela (tiring or exhausting- this is what most children are called before they are hit) and fakapikopiko (lazy). There are many faka words that are not particularly commonplace within the Tongan language but I find them and their definitions extremely comical so I have created a list of my top ten favorite faka words for your enjoyment:

Top Ten Faka Words

fakasiosio - to peep, look around for, see if one can find (Often used to describe the Peeping Tom types)
fakamimi - to cause a baby to urinate (How one goes about this I am not quite sure)
fakafanau - one’s wife’s child begotten by a former husband born after one’s marriage to the woman and regarded as ones own (Catch all that?)
fakasapa - pertaining to supper, to provide with supper (Much more straightforward of a definition than #3, isn’t it?)
faka-Suva - in a manner characteristic of Suva, the capitol of Fiji, living as husband and wife though not legally married (apparently there is a little bit of a Tongan-Fijian rivalry)
faka-Ha’amoa – Samoan, in a Samoan way, to be bare from the waist up (Evidently the missionaries made sure Tongans were clothed before they made their way to Samoa)
fakaifo - to make tasty (ifo, meaning delicious, is one Tongan word I know I will use in my vocabulary post-Tonga)
fakatevolo – as or like pertaining to devils, demons, or ghosts (Tongans take all things "tevolo" very seriously)
fakauha - to go out in the rain (Tongans will often stand in the pouring rain with a bar of soap a “fakauha” shower)
fakape - to come out of ones hiding place and yell “Pe!” (It is only a matter of time before I fakape someone)

Homestay

2008-07-13T19:11:00.000-07:00

Some of my most significant experiences in Tonga happened during my Pre-Service Training. I spent my first two weeks in Tonga living with the Mo’unga family in the village of Ha’atafu on the main island of Tongatatpu. The next six weeks of my training I spent with the Hoeft family in the Ha’apai island group in the village of Koulo. This "homestay" portion of my training was an extremely formative period of my Peace Corps journey and I thought it best to share some photos from that time.

Ha'atafu, Tongatapu Homestay

My homestay mom, Nahi, sitting outside the house where I spent my first two weeks in Tonga.

My first night with my new homestay family we had a bbq on the beach. My homestay brother and sister, Mateika and Anita, were characters to say the least. I definately had a "we're not in Kansas anymore" moment sitting on the beach that night.

The Mo'unga family goes to church. They're Mormon if you couldn't already tell...

My homestay brother Tevita and father Pulotu roasting a pig.

Nahi preparing the 'lu early in the morning.

Eating 'lu and much, much more after church.

Hanging out in the kitchen- most likely practicing Tongan language...

Nahi and Mateika came to see us off at the wharf on our way to Ha'apai.

REUNION! My homestay family came to my swearing in ceremony over two months after my stay with them ended.

Koulo, Ha'apai Homestay

My homestay mother and father, Tupou and Taniela.

Me and my homestay sister Toti along with Karen and Jessica.

Jessica and her homestay mother from hell.

Swimming with my homestay sister Arina and some of the Koulo kiddos.

My homestay sister Aneti who prepared my meals and braided my hair everyday.

Here is a piece I wrote for the newly created Peace Corps Tonga Website (http://www.pctonga.com/) that has been developed as a resource for future Peace Corps Tonga Volunteers if you're interested in learning more about homestay:

Throughout the first two months of pre-service training Peace Corps Tonga trainees live with Tongan families in what is called “homestay”. The homestay portion of training is an invaluable part of the Peace Corps service, as it allows trainees to learn about Tongan culture in a completely authentic environment. Homestay can be difficult, yet it is undeniably beneficial and vastly rewarding. Throughout homestay you will observe what daily life is like for Tongans and actively participate in their daily routines, such as helping with the laundry, going to church, drinking kava, or merely laying around watching movies. Throughout homestay you will witness firsthand the roles and responsibilities of family members within a traditional Tongan household. This inside look provides trainees with an exceptional opportunity to learn about the Tongan way of life, and is the cornerstone of developing a greater understanding of Tonga throughout two years of Peace Corps service.

Although trainees are given their own bedroom to sleep in and keep their personal belongings, lack of privacy is a definite hardship that many trainees face throughout homestay. Within the Tongan culture private property and personal space do not typically exist, especially within a traditional Tongan household. Not being able to communicate effectively with your Tongan family is another frustrating aspect of homestay. While practicing Tongan language with you homestay family offers a great opportunity to expand your language learning, it can be extremely exasperating not being able to get your point across. Food is another cause of distress for many trainees during homestay, as the majority of your meals during pre-service training will be provided by your homestay family. While most volunteers acquire a taste for Tongan food throughout their service, initially it can be difficult to adjust to eating traditional Tongan food. Also, having little control over the amount of food you are given as well as lack in variety of food you eat can be trying. Fortunately, if there is an issue with food and you bring it up tactfully with your family they most likely provide you with food that you desire.

Despite any difficulties and frustrations trainees may encounter during their homestay experience, the knowledge gained about Tongan way of life resulting from living with Tongans at their level is immeasurable. Tongan families who open up their homes and hearts to trainees genuinely care about sharing their lives and culture, resulting in both a better understanding of Tongan life as well as strong attachments created between homestay families and trainees. Visiting homestay families throughout Peace Corps service is a major part of many volunteers’ Peace Corps service. Even throughout the most difficult times of homestay, lessons are learned and understanding about Tonga and its people is gained. Augmented understanding of Tongan culture and sense of accomplishment felt upon the completion of homestay offers trainees with a newfound sense of confidence going into the next step of life here in Tonga: two years of service! Good Luck!

Child's Play

2008-07-10T23:47:00.000-07:00

In Tonga Sundays are brutally quiet. Going to church, eating a huge Tongan lunch called lu cooked in the underground "umu" oven, and sleeping are pretty much the only acceptable activities. It is illegal to work on Sunday in Tonga and even exercising and listening to music is frowned upon.

Last Sunday I decided to go for a leisurely walk around my village, as I was extremely restive from being in the house all afternoon. I was fairly disheartened after spotting a nomadic toddler wandering aimlessly along with the chickens and pigs. After my encounter with the lone toddler I came across a group of children vociferously playing, a definite anomaly on a Sunday. The children, ages 3-10, were playing a game which consisted of precariously balancing planks of wood using sticks, and then trying to knock them down by throwing sizeable rocks, sticks, and coconut shells. This game seemed extremely dangerous, and I decided to leave because I was afraid if any of the children were to get hurt I would be liable. On my way home I realized the game the children were playing, albeit fairly unsafe, required both creativity and cooperation, and noted the rarity of having such a wide age range of children all playing together "nicely".

I do not always have to venture out to observe children’s resourcefulness in play. Just today I was sitting at home when I heard the sound of incessant drumming and singing filling my ears. I looked out my window and saw a group of the neighborhood kids sitting in the middle of the road, banging away at old corned beef cans with sticks, drumming and singing to their hearts content.

After music time some of the kids stuck around and played a game of “baseball” using flip flops as mitts and a stick for a bat.

Perhaps it is my degree in child development, years spent working in childcare, and upbringing in a culture that tends to overprotect its children that has made me oversensitive to the fact that Tongan children are not closely supervised here. Children in Tonga are frequently left unattended, with four and five year olds left to take care of their much younger siblings. I am sure many Tongan children are injured or even killed due to lack of adult supervision, however, sometimes this absence of care proves to be beneficial. Tongan children are left to their own devices and are extremely autonomous, imaginative, cooperative and confident as a result. It is amazing the ways in which Tongan children amuse themselves, entertaining and inspiring me in the process.

Corporal Punishment

2008-07-08T20:42:00.000-07:00

Regardless of my extremely positive experience thus far, adhering to cultural norms and values in Tonga that are so dissimilar from life in the United States has been extremely difficult. Drastic changes in privacy, diet, socializing and communication have undoubtedly been some of the most trying adjustments. Despite how hard these aspects of my life have been for me over the past 21 months, they do not even come close in comparing to how hard it has been for me to adjust to living in a country that adopts corporal punishment so openly.

I cannot count the number of times I have had to get up out of bed to get my ipod to cover up the sound of hapless children crying hysterically as they are being beat. Typically the child will be overtired, and should have been put to sleep hours ago. The teachers in the school where I work frequently hit children who are not paying attention or give a wrong answer with a wooden stick. Students rarely get punished for disruptive or disrespectful behavior, as if this is the case a much bigger stick is used. As long as students do not cringe or cry out in pain I am usually able to keep myself composed. It is when the children flinch, tear up, or worst of all, weep hysterically that I remove myself from the situation to collect my thoughts.

Corporal punishment is a very difficult issue to address, as I believe it is imperative as a Peace Corps volunteer I do not walk into someone else's classroom and tell them how to manage their students or someone's home and tell them how to raise their children. Thankfully, teachers and parents alike do "tone it down" in my presence. Unfortunately, however, the experience of overhearing a piece of wood smacking against the back of a child in the next-door classroom or the sound of a child getting his bottom repeatedly spanked accompanied by his helpless cries are as emotionally draining as witnessing the abuse firsthand. As hard as it is for me to not outwardly contest this blatant maltreatment of children, I feel as though to maintain respect and appreciation from my villagers I must not be "fie-poto" (Tongan word for know-it-all, translation: want to be smart) and try my best to be understanding of cultural differences.

I believe leading by example and demonstrating how other methods of classroom management can be successful and gently encouraging people to go home and put their fussy overtired children to bed I am reducing the number of instances of corporal punishment within my village community without offending anyone or compromising my role. As difficult as it is I have merely accepted that there is a great discrepancy between how I personally believe children should be treated and how Tongans view managing and rearing their children.

Better Late than Never

2008-07-07T16:23:00.000-07:00

So I caved in and finally got a blog. It has been a long time coming; 21 months to be exact. When I first came to Tonga as a Peace Corps Volunteer in October of 2006 I wished to just live my life day to day and saw little value in sharing my experiences other than sporadic letters and emails home to select family members and friends. Now as I quickly approach the end of my service I believe writing about my life in Tonga online is a great way for me to share a significant part of my life, a feeble attempt I suppose to reconnect with so many of you who I have lost touch with over the past two years.

I realize many people from home may feel as though I have dropped off the face of the planet, and they would not be too far off base in that sentiment. The Kingdom of Tonga is located one-third of the way from New Zealand to Hawai’i. It seems as though I could not have gotten farther away from home if I had tried. For those of you who do not know, Tonga is an Archipelago in the South Pacific Ocean made up of 169 islands, 36 of them inhabited, stretching over a distance of approximately 500 miles. I live on the main island of the Vava’u group which just so happens to be the most excellent island of them all, but then again I may be a little biased…

I was recently reminded by a fellow volunteer who is finishing up his service that my Peace Corps experience is finite and that I should enjoy the remainder of my time here to the fullest, as it will inevitably all come to an end. I have honestly had the time of my life here on this tiny little island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. It is unbelievable to think of how I have been changed by my experience here in Tonga, a country -make that kingdom- that I had no idea existed before I began my Peace Corps application three years ago.

Far too much has happened over the past two years for me to even begin to write about in an attempt to bring everyone up to date, in fact I do not think I will ever be able to explicate just how significant my Peace Corps service has been for me. I have uploaded some photos in an effort to give somewhat of an idea as to what life has been like for me so far, however, in this instance I do not think the idiom "a picture is worth a thousand words" holds true.

Starting now I am going to begin writing about my life here in Tonga. Better late than never, right? I figure posting on a blog is the best means of sharing my life experiences over the next six or so months living in such an extraordinary part of the world, if not only for the benefit of others to learn about a far-off island kingdom but also as a way for me to share and document the end of my Peace Corps service here in Tonga. Enjoy!

The group who fundraised to support the computer lab where I work.

Home sweet home.

Hanging out with some of the women in my village.

Setting up recycling bins with the youth of my village.

Christmas time festivities.

My old co-teachers.

Some of my favorites :)

Typical Tongan classroom.