Kai Tunu

Tongans rarely go to the beach for recreation. One the rare occasion a group of Tongans go to the beach, however, they go all out. Religious holidays and special occasions are the two most common reasons Tongans will go to spend the afternoon at the beach. Contrary to the beach going habits of Americans, Tongans prefer to go to the beach when it’s cloudy (preferably raining) and in the late afternoon to avoid too much sunshine.

Yesterday I went to Keitahi Beach for one last “Kai Tunu”. The special occasion was the culmination of six weeks of homestay eight Peace Corps trainees had spent in the village of Leimatu’a. The eight trainees, their Tongan families and I spent the afternoon swimming, sunning, smiling- and of course, eating…

The first time I went to Keitahi was during my first few days living in Vava’u. While walking down the road one of my neighbors asked me a question in Tongan that I did not completely understand. I picked up on the words “ocean”, “eat”, and “swimming” and told her simply “io” (yes). An hour or so later I heard my name being called from a car in the road in front of my house. I had not realized we would be driving to the beach, as I was so new to the island that I thought there was a beach within walking distance. After nearly 20 minutes in the car we made our way down a very steep dirt road, barely wide enough for one car, let alone two way traffic. Twice we had to put the car in reverse and backtrack to make way for giant trucks full of Tongan, speeding up the muddy hill.

Once we reached the bottom of the “road” the trees cleared and I saw a breathtaking view of the ocean and endless stretch of beach. Crystal clear blue waters, white soft sand, green palm trees swaying against the baby blue sky; Keitahi truly is paradise.

I was extremely overwhelmed my first time going to Keitahi. I did not realize I would be gone for the entire day, I honestly did not know at that point that the island of Vava’u was big enough for a 20 minute car ride. I have become much easygoing after the past two years, typically not knowing or caring where I am going or for how long I will be there. That day, however, after swimming a bit and eating some roast pig I proceeded to sleep. The dramatic landscape, huge amounts of people, foreign food, and unattended children swimming made me extremely anxious (With good reason, I suppose, as at one “kai tunu” at Talihau beach a little girl from my village nearly drowned).

There have been many occasions where I will go to Keitahi with friends and we will be the only people there. On one amazing beach day last year, my friend Jessica and I saw whales in the distance. Other times, the beach is full of Tongans frolicking in the water, jumping off the huge rocks into the water, and of course, eating kai tunu.

“Kai Tunu” literally translates to “eat roast”, however, it usually means to have a picnic. The roasting typically does not take place on the beach. Tongans typically spend the morning at home, roasting pigs and preparing food to be packed into coolers. Sometimes, however, if it is a very special occasion Tongans will build a fire and actually roast pig or lamb shanks on the beach.

After a few hours of swimming and playing in the ocean we were ready for some lunch. On the menu: hot dogs, potato salad, fried chicken, corned beef (naturally), pineapple, watermelon, hard boiled eggs, sweet potatoes, spaghetti, sandwiches, cake, and ice cream.

I am very happy to have had the chance to spend the afternoon at the beach, soaking in the sun and scenery with my villagers and newest members of the Peace Corps Tonga community.