Ofa Lahi ki he Tamaiki Ako

There is a band of children in my neighborhood who I have become extremely close to over the past two years. Now that I am getting ready to leave, their once sporadic knocks at my door have become increasingly more frequent. I had eight separate requests to come in to read, color, help do laundry – anything to get inside the palangi’s house.

If I wasn’t so close to finishing my time in Tonga I think I’d find this annoying, however, I love these children and thinking that I will be leaving them in a few short days breaks my heart – I want to spend as much time with them as possible before I go.

My desire to spend more time with the local kids was evident last week when I decided to host my first sleepover in well over a decade - complete with movies, popcorn, and nail polish. If that isn’t sharing American culture, I don’t know what is.

The kids have been receiving a lot of my clothes as I have been cleaning out my house in preparation for my return to the states next week. Giving away my belongings is a way for me to show my appreciation to the people who have spent the past two incredible years with me in this lovely village. It makes me smile to think for many years to come the kids in Leimatu’a will be running around in my clothes; Colby-Sawyer College, Google, and the Gap are certainly well represented.

I’m not as much of a packrat as I used to be, however, I did come across some interesting items while cleaning out my house this morning. I am a huge fan of theme parties. Last year when I was in Australia I took the opportunity to stock up on novelty items perfect for some fun times in Tonga, a pack of “party mustaches” being my most precious purchase. Low and behold this morning I found the comical items, with such incredible names as “The Hero”, “The Weasel”, “The Sheriff”, “The Bruiser”, and “The Hollywood”. The distribution of the party mustaches are a component of my informal English language teaching – the word “mustache” will not soon be forgotten in Leimatu’a, that’s for sure.

Pomp, Circumstance and Candy

This morning I attended the Class One graduation of my neighbor Naua. On the way to the ceremony I noticed two giant boxes full of “kahoa” necklaces made out of candy and fresh flowers in the car.

Once the class rank of the five year olds had been announced to the masses, I was instructed by Naua's mother, Uai, to help carry the kahoas to the stage.

I proceeded to put one kahoa around each child's head. I assumed by the sheer number of kahoas that were placed in my arms that I was to give one to everybody in the class; I was mistaken.

After I had placed kahoas around several children’s necks, I looked over to see each family placing an inordinate amount of kahoas around their respective child’s neck and arms.

I realized my mistake and quickly joined Uai in placing one kahoa after another around Naua’s extremities until she was immobilized.

I can only imagine what transpires at college graduation ceremonies.

too much candy...

crash

The Trainees & Me

A few months ago I was asked by a Peace Corps employee preparing for Group 74’s arrival to Tonga whether or not I would mind having eight Peace Corps Trainees live in my village for their six week homestay experience. After some hesitation I decided that I would give my support. I was initially apprehensive because I did not want my village full of Peace Corps staff and trainees. I felt it a bit invasive, and selfishly wanted to spend my last few weeks in Leimatu’a peacefully with my villagers. After some time I realized that because my village is such a close-knit community it would be perfect for training purposes. I also thought that the “palangi” company of eight new Peace Corps trainees ultimately would be a nice deviation from the norm.

Last August word spread throughout Leimatu’a via the coconut wireless that eight families would be chosen to host Peace Corps trainees for six weeks beginning in mid-October. I was inundated with questions by curious Tongans about why there were eight Peace Corps trainees coming to stay in Leimatu’a. I explained that before I began my work in Vava’u I had lived with a family in Ha’apai for six weeks to learn the Tongan language and culture, and that the new volunteers were staying in Leimatu’a for the same reason.

After several interviews and home inspections the announcement of what families would receive Peace Corps Trainees was made. It was incredible to see how thrilled the families chosen to receive volunteers were. The great efforts of the selected families in preparing their homes were remarkable as well as the safety, security, and health requirements that need to be met before the trainees move in are quite extensive.

On October 14th eight Peace Corps trainees and two Tongan Language Trainers moved into Leimatu’a. Right from the beginning I felt solidarity with the new trainees. Peace Corps really is like a friend filter; you more often than not find yourself surrounded by likeminded fellow Americans with similar motives and ideals.

Witnessing the trainees during their first few incredibly overwhelming days thrown into a Tongan household with very little language skills, I remembered how extreme homestay is. Before long the trainees got their bearings and became more comfortable and confident living with their Tongan families.

I was surprised to see how quickly the trainees integrated into the Leimatu’a community. They actively participated in kava circles, funerals, weddings, feasts, birthday parties, and church services. Within one month a trainee named Eric had been named a Talking Chief, he now goes by Funga Sione. Another trainee, Marloucha, was the Tongan equivalent of a Maid of Honor at her homestay sister’s wedding. A trainee named Shawn had the honor of naming his homestay mother’s baby after his grandmother. Had the baby been a boy, he would have been named after Shawn.

A Tongan language trainer named Poli who had never been in Leimatu’a was shocked by how well the trainees were being received. Often the homestay families invited us and the entire group of trainees to birthday and wedding celebrations. Twice Poli openly cried during her traditional thank you speech, as the families had clearly gone above and beyond in their preparations.

While walking home after a birthday party that had been thrown for one for the trainees named Alicia, Poli told me that she believed the reason they were being so well received was because I had done such good work in Leimatu’a. With over 1,300 people living in Leimatu’a, Poli was happy to see that that everyone knew who I was and respected my work. The recognition from Poli was very nice. I realized that night that had I not gained the respect of my villagers it was unlikely there would have been so much excitement about the arrival of eight new Peace Corps trainees in Leimatu’a.

It was a lot of fun to share my village with eight new trainees. In addition to hanging out at the “Faka-Tonga” events, I hosted a couple of dinner parties – a definite first in Tonga. The trainees had many questions for me, and many times apologized for the constant flow of inquiries. I was more than happy to share my thoughts and experiences; answering their questions gave me the opportunity to reflect on my two years as a Peace Corps volunteer in Tonga and articulate ideas I had never contemplated before.

One recurring question within the Peace Corps Tonga community that came up during discussions with the trainees was whether or not I believe Peace Corps belongs in Tonga. This question often stems from the fact that Peace Corps has been in Tonga for over 40 years. I personally believe that Peace Corps Volunteers belong in any developing country where they are welcome.

Peace Corps was established by President John F. Kennedy on March 1, 1961 as a means of providing trained Americans to help people in developing countries meet their needs in addition to promoting world peace and friendship, to which there simply is no limit.